Problem torque converter clutches

Torque Converter Clutch

I have written about torque converter clutch problems in other posts but this one will be a little different. Most often when I have a problem with the converter clutch lock up causing an engine stalling condition I find a problem with the tcc solenoid.

But this is not always the cause of the problem. In fact the last time I faced a converter clutch lock up problem I went for the solenoid right away and it did not fix the issue which was an engine stall only when put into reverse gear. On this particular repair I ran into a clogged transmission cooler.

Although this was the first time I have ever seen this component cause a stalling condition, after checking into the situation it made a lot of sense. The drivers complaint was different this time around then the usual complaint associated with torque converter clutch problems.

The driver stated that the stalling condition was most often when he put the vehicle into reverse. Especially when the engine was cold, like in the morning while backing out of his driveway. In most cases when you have a torque converter solenoid issue the engine will stall as you slow down for a stoplight in a forward gear.

Transmission cooler problems

TCC Solenoid

Some vehicles equipped with a converter lockup clutch might stall when the transmission is shifted into reverse gear. The cause of this problem might just be a plugged transmission cooler or clogged cooler lines and not the tcc solenoid.

The reason for this type of torque converter clutch problems is that the transmission fluid normally flows from the converter and directly through the transmission cooler. If the cooler passages are blocked fluid is unable to exhaust from the torque converter and the converter clutch piston can be forced to engage when reverse is selected.

Although as I mentioned this condition is not a common one, the test procedure is not that difficult to perform. And could save you from replacing a good TCC solenoid which on some models is not an easy task. If you want to verify that the transmission cooler is plugged you have to disconnect the cooler return line from the radiator or the external cooler if your vehicle is equipped with one.

Transmission Cooler

Next you connect a short piece of rubber hose and to prevent it from slipping off the line you can use a couple of hose clamps. Put the end of the rubber hose into an empty bucket or large container. Next you start the engine and with the vehicle in park and the wheels blocked and you measure the amount of fluid that flows into the container after 20 seconds.

A good rule of thumb is that normally 1 quart of fluid should flow into the container in about 20 seconds of run time at engine idle. If less than that has filled the container it may be an indication of a plugged transmission cooler.

Some people prefer to try to clear a blocked cooler by using compressed air. I recommend replacing the cooler whenever possible. But if you do decide to use compressed air make sure you limit the air pressure to below 50 psi or you can cause internal damage to the cooler.

The reason I prefer to replace the part is because the little pieces that are left behind can work their way into the transmission or even clogged the filter. This can cause expensive internal damage to the transmission. A replacement external cooler is around a $100 and can save you a lot of aggravation.

If you are interested in learning more about transmission operation and seeing some common problems with specific models I have a section dedicated to the subject on my you fix cars website. You can learn more about the theory and operation of the torque converter and review some more automatic transmission problems. If you are interested in seeing more recent posts here visit the auto repair information blog homepage.

Learn About Disc Brakes

Replacement Brake Pads

Learning about disc brakes would be good information for any driver to be knowledgeable about. You do not have to be a do-it-yourself mechanic to learn more about the subject. This is valuable information because if you own a car you will probably need a brake job sooner or later.

When you take your vehicle into a repair shop they may throw some up sales your way. It is nice to be able to discuss specific problems with your auto repair shop in and knowledgeable way. Even if your car has a highly technical antilock brake system when it comes to the basic maintenance of replacing brake pads this operation is very similar to the way it was back in the 70s.

Maybe the only difference is back then they where disc brakes in the front and drum brakes on the rear. Although some drum brakes are still around today it is most common to see a four wheel disc braking system. This even true for light duty and heavy duty pick up trucks and vans.

Car disc brakes offer major advantages over the drum brake system. The nice thing about disc brakes is they are resistant to pedal fade due to fluid overheating. They are also very resistant to the effects of water such as when the vehicle runs through deep puddles. The rotating of the disc throws the water out using centrifugal force. The squeezing of the pads on either side of the rotor quickly dries the braking surface.

Do-it-yourself brake jobs

Because the braking system is so important to the safety of the driver and the people that travel with them I really don’t recommend performing this operation on your own unless you have a good amount of auto repair experience under your belt.

Premium brake pads

If you are determined to perform your first brake job I recommend that you find a mechanic to stop by and either give you a few lessons or at least inspect your work before you put the wheels back on the automobile. Often I will show friends and neighbors how to perform their own brake jobs.

After some basic instruction and checking their work they are able to perform their own brake pad replacement on future maintenance services without my help. Recently a neighbor decided that he was going to jump in and perform his own brake pad maintenance. He asked me to stop by and take a look.
By the time I got there he had the wheels back on the vehicle and had already road tested it.

As I pulled into his driveway I couldn’t help but notice the smoke pouring off the front wheels. Obviously he did something wrong. We took the vehicle for a short road test and I could feel that the front brakes were dragging or staying applied. His new brake pads were smoking because they were constantly pushed against the rotor.  After we let things cool down and pulled the wheels off I didn’t see anything wrong right away.

I decided to remove the caliper and I instantly saw what he had missed. He replaced the brake pads and took the time to clean the caliper slides. But he did not install any lubricant on the caliper slides before he reassembled the front brakes.  I prefer to use a specialized caliper lube for this operation. It is specifically designed to withstand the extremely high temperatures associated with front braking.

Using any other kind of lubricant can cause problems. I ran home to get my caliper lube and let him lube up the caliper slides. On the next road test we could feel that everything was back to normal. He was able to save money by performing is own brake job and he learned something about solving front brake problems.

This auto repair information blog has more than 130 pages of car repairing articles. This next link will take you to the homepage from this article about disc brakes.

Wiper Linkage

It is the season for windshield wiper problems. Overall the system was designed to be extremely reliable. With that said it is not invincible. Common driver complaints can include poor wiping where the windshield is not swept completely clean as the wipers pass up and back.

Another big complaint would be extremely noisy wiper operation (addressed below). Other complaints related to the wiper linkage or arms may include situations where they are out of adjustment and could be slapping the windshield moldings.

I have seen situations were the blades are touching each other as they sweep back and forth. Although not as common would be other complaints such as intermittent operation and slower than normal sweeping action. We will discuss all of these windshield wiper problems below. I have made available some of the parts that are often required to solve these issues including new wiper blades.

Common windshield wiper problems

New wiper blades

The driver complaint about the wipers not clearing the windshield properly is often due to problems with the wiper blade itself. Nicks in the rubber and bent brackets that hold the wiper blade insert are some of the most common problems associated with the windshield wiper that does not clear properly. In many cases replacing the windshield wiper blades will correct both of these conditions.

Also keep in mind that the rubber on the wiper blades themselves will harden over time which will reduce the efficiency of the blades and can cause extremely irritating noise. As a general rule of thumb I replace my own wiper blades about once a year whether they need it or not.

When the wiper blades become out of time or do not park low enough or hit a windshield molding this can be a sign of bent parts. Often this can be traced back to the wiper transmission linkage or the arms themselves. The most common cause of bent windshield wiper parts is a driver that does not clear the windshield of built up snow and just turns the wipers on.

Windshield wiper systems were not designed to move heavy loads. Also in some cases the wiper blades can become frozen to the windshield. When you turn the wipers on the force of the motor breaks the blades loose but at the same time can damage the wiper transmission linkage and other parts that are connected to it.

Windshield wiper motor problems

Wiper Motor

If the wipers are working slower then would be considered normal one of the quickest ways to figure out if it is a motor problem or a binding linkage problem would be to disconnect the wiper linkage at the motor. Then turn on the wiper system and if the motor runs properly without laboring the problem is most likely not with the motor but with the wiper transmission or linkage.

If you are not sure on what the condition of the motor is, you can always take your automotive meter and measure the resistance and compare it to the specification in your service manual. You can confirm a binding wiper transmission or linkage by operating the wipers by hand. Not only should they be easy to move but they should be consistently smooth with no harder to move areas or binding taking place.

If the wiper motor does not run in a particular speed or not at all, an electrical problem should be considered. Checking the wiper fuse is a good place to start if the wipers are not working. On most vehicles a separate wiper fuse is supplied. If you suspect you have an electrical problem I recommend following the diagnostic tree chart in your car service manual for wiper problems. These systems are fairly straightforward and have not gone through too many changes over the years. Therefore the diagnostic charts are some of the easier ones to follow.

If you are interested in learning more about automotive electronics I have a repair module dedicated to not only some basic information but also theory and operation. You can read through this section from this next link that will take you to the automotive electrical problems area. For more of the latest posts on this auto repair information blog this next link will take to the home page from this page about windshield wiper problems.

ASE testing format changes

ASE 25 Year Medal

Let me tell you about how the ASE tests have changed. On November 18, 2010 I took another round of ASE recertification tests. After taking these exams for the last 25 years, for the first time I can truly say that not only has the format changed but also the testing experience.

When I first started taking these exams in the mid-1980s almost every question was in the format of technician A, or technician B, both mechanics are correct or neither technician is correct.

On the exams I took just a few days ago there were only a couple of questions in this type of format. Also each test had 30 questions and if I remember correctly the recertification exams use to have 25.  Many of the questions had pictures associated with them.

The question would describe a customer complaint and the picture would sometimes provide readings, measurements or statistics. With those two pieces of information you are provided with four answers and you then have to pick the best one.

For me and for most mechanics we resist change (it’s just human nature). Add to that the fact that my older ASE study guides where geared to the old format and I felt somewhat unprepared for this round of recertification exams. So the ASE tests have changed but it does not appear that the study guides have followed close enough behind. I would expect to see updated study guides before the next testing session.

Be prepared for the new ASE test

With the new format of the ASE tests some additional preparation may be required. For me after turning wrenches for more than 25 years my eyesight is beginning to fail. I was not expecting tiny little pictures to be included in the test. I do not wear glasses but after the last testing session I think I should get some. The pictures were extremely small and hard for me to see.

So on top of getting a good night’s sleep and eating a light meal before your test session I also now recommend that you bring a magnifying glass so that you can examine the small pictures that you will be required to understand in full if you hope to get the questions right.

Recertified Master Technician

Although I have not seen any new ASE test preparation manuals released in the last year I would suspect that they should be made available in the near future. Meanwhile any study time is still a good thing. On top of reviewing any available ASE test preparation materials it couldn’t hurt to break out your automotive technology textbooks. In my case my textbook was written in 1984.

So I went to the local college bookstore and bought an updated version (available below) that I hope will better prepare me for the ASE tests in the future. Since I’m on a never ending cycle of recertification and test taking to stay currently certified in 16 areas that I have achieved I will have to adapt to the new tests.

I guess if you want to get reflective it is true that the automobile has gone through extreme changes in the last 25 years. I guess it’s time for the industry standard mechanic certification exams to go through some changes as well.

ASE prep guides

This is the description from the study guides I am recommending today. These are the latest ones I could find at the time of this writing. Keep your eyes open for newer releases before the next testing sessions. Technicians seeking certification in any of the automotive ASE exam areas will benefit from the valuable preparation offered by this newly revised package of test preparation booklets.

Each title in this popular series features the most up to date task list available, along with practice test questions like those typically seen on an ASE certification exam. This can help users feel more comfortable and prepared to pass the actual tests. Comprehensive coverage includes overviews of each task list topic, including descriptions of the actual repair procedure being discussed.

Also included are test taking strategies and detailed explanations as to why a particular answer is correct or incorrect. Each chapter begins with a pretest that provides insight into the depth of preparation required to become familiar with the information contained in the chapter. This is then followed by a description of each task and the must-have information related to it. ASE type questions at the end of each chapter can help you be better prepared for the automotive certification tests.

For more information about taking these exams and some articles about previous attempts and results visit my auto repair business page. If you would like to see the latest posts to the auto repair information blog the next link takes you to the spot from this page about the changes in ASE testing.

Smart Automatic Transmissions

Smart Automatic Transmission

Some drivers do not realize how smart automatic transmissions are in modern vehicles. This is one of the few systems on the automobile that actually learns what the driver wants and how they normally act. After studying the driver’s long-term and short-term habits the transmission control module does its best to deliver what the driver expects.

Smart automatic transmissions are able to change gears automatically in response to operating conditions as well as the driver’s habits. The transmission computer monitors the condition of the engine and compensates for any changes that are required for optimal performance and fuel economy.

At the same time it also memorizes the typical driving style of the primary driver. With this information the TCM can adjust the timing of the shifts by controlling the valve body and even the converter clutch lock up engagement to provide what is required by the driver at the appropriate time.

What else can a Smart transmission do

The transmission control module in conjunction with the power train control module learns the characteristics of the transmission and changes its programming accordingly. It learns the release an application rates of various internal components under various operating conditions. In the automotive industry this is known as adaptive learning capabilities.

These smart automatic transmissions are also capable of compensating for internal wear and defects that might cause the normal shift routine to be inefficient. This adaptive learning allows for the best possible operation and shift feel throughout the life of the transmission. As the transmission gets older and the seals harden they may start to bleed off pressure.

In this instance total line pressure can be increased to compensate for the internal transmission problem. Other things can also be compensated for such as normal wear conditions like worn friction discs and scored friction plates. The smart transmission is able to compensate for these things automatically.

Common problem with Smart transmissions

Valve Body

As internal components begin to wear shift overlapped times may increase. The transmission control module is able to adjust line pressure to maintain proper shift points and calibration by manipulating the valve body. On some models the control module can read input parameters and provide output signals at over 100 times per second.

Direct battery voltage is applied to both the power train control module and the TCM. If the computer loses this source voltage the transmission on some vehicles may enter a limp home mode. On some models the vehicle will stay in second gear and not up shift or downshift. When the vehicle battery is replaced and is disconnected for some time these modules may lose their learned memory.

A small capacitor is usually included in the circuit to provide voltage during a battery disconnect. When you’re control module loses their learned memory and a new battery is then connected these modules will have to relearn everything. To the driver when they get back into the vehicle things may feel different until the smart automatic transmission re-learns the driver’s habits and can once again adapt to the internal conditions of that particular transmission.

Often as a mechanic after a battery replacement sometimes the driver will come back and say my car just doesn’t feel the same. In most cases it will take a couple of days of driving for your automatic transmission to become smart again.

If you’re interested in learning about transmissions I have built a repair module on my you fix cars website that talks about not only the theory of operation but also specific problems with automatic transmissions. If you would like to see the latest posts on this blog this next link will take you to the homepage from this page about smart automatic transmissions.

Removing a car engine

Engine Crane

A lot of site visitors asked me if removing a car engine is difficult. The short answer to this question is yes. Is it possible for someone to accomplish in their driveway? The answer is again yes. If someone is contemplating replacing their own engine and has some good do it yourself automotive skills it is possible to be successful. This article will review some procedures and tips to help increase your chances of success.

Before you begin removing a car engine you really want to make sure you have the tools and equipment required for the job before you start. In addition to basic hand tools and some special tools you will need an engine crane, the special engine lift chains and an engine stand is nice to have also.

Many tool rental companies have these for rent for about $70 for the whole weekend. But before you go out and rent one it is best to prepare as much as possible before you bring the crane home.

Basic procedures for engine removal will vary greatly depending on your make model and year of the vehicle. An auto repair manual for your specific vehicle is highly recommended. And I would strongly suggest you check out an online car repair manual such as all data. This provides procedures from the automotive manufacturer instead of a small book from the auto part store.

Pulling an automotive engine

In my opinion removing a car engine from a rear wheel drive vehicle is much easier than a front wheel drive one. You may want to take this into consideration before beginning the operation. After the vehicle is in a position where it can sit for several days without being in the way I usually start by removing the hood.

This step may not be required but can be performed quickly and really provides a lot more room and light. Often when you go to pick the engine up with the crane the hood is in the way. If I’m replacing an engine on a car that I am not that familiar with I will usually start by taking pictures of the engine compartment, making sure to get close-ups on the vacuum line position and wiring harness placement. These pictures can really save you when you are reinstalling the new or rebuilt engine.

You are going to have to drain the engines fluids. I like to take extra time to make sure I get all of the engine oil and coolant out and then clean up the work area so I am not slopping around in a slippery mess. Keeping things neat and orderly and clean when you’re replacing a car engine can be key to safety but also provides a mental boost (for me anyway).

Disconnecting the engine

Remove the air intake ducts and the air cleaner assembly. What I do is I will make a pile of parts for that particular system in this case the air intake system and also get a box to put all of those specific bolts in. On reassembly you can go to the pile and grab the specific box of bolts and keep everything organized. It is also nice to have an engine stand to put the removed engine on.

Engine Stands

The fuel lines will have to be disconnected from the intake manifold. Again each vehicle will have a different procedure to accomplish this. But it is very important to make sure that the system is depressurized so that no fuel sprays out. I also like to remove the fuel filler cap to make sure that there is no pressure in the tank itself. Follow your auto repair manuals for the specific steps to depressurized the system and safely disconnect from the engine.

Some of the automotive systems will be staying in the engine compartment and will have to be removed from the engine. As an example the power steering pump can stay connected to the lines and remain in the engine bay. The A/C compressor as well can stay connected to the air conditioning system and also be removed from the engine and stored out of the way in the engine compartment.

In both of these cases you’ll have to remove the engine drive belts and individually remove these accessories from the engine. I use bungee cords or large wire ties to safely secure these accessories out of the way after they are unbolted from the engine.

On a rear wheel drive engine you usually have to remove the front radiator fan shroud. In some cases you also have to remove the radiator itself so that it is not damaged by the swinging engine when it is lifted by the crane. You want to make sure that you don’t damage anything that does not need to be replaced during the operation.

Special engine lift chain

Now it is time to disconnect all electrical harnesses that run to the engine. If you took the pictures recommended above you will know were these harnesses go on reinstallation. You can also manually mark them with a tag. Now it is time to start removing engine mounting bolts.

The transmission will have to be unbolted from the engine. The engine mounts will have to be unbolted from the frame. Procedures for these operations again should be followed in your auto repair manual.

Now you can position the engine crane over the engine and attach the specialized engine lift chains to the old engine to be removed. Most engines have attaching brackets for this operation that was used at the factory for installation. Again this step is very important for safety reasons. These approved lifting locations are indicated in a quality service manual.

This was just a general overview of the steps that are required to replace a car engine. Again this was requested by several site visitors and I hope that it shed some light on what is involved with replacing a car engine. It should never be attempted by anybody that doesn’t have quite a bit of auto repair experience under their belt. Performing this operation without the proper reference materials is a really bad idea.

For more information about general auto repairs you can visit this blog’s homepage from this page about replacing a car engine. If you are looking for more information about how an engine works I have a section dedicated on my other website about the theory and operation of an automotive engine.

Auto parts careers

Auto Parts

Auto parts careers do not usually pay well at the entry level. But if someone has the time and patience not only can this be a fun and rewarding job that can eventually pay well. This is a career that is an excellent choice for those who know about cars but would rather not perform the physical work on them.

Although you may not have to get dirty by turning wrenches a lot of the knowledge required to be in the auto parts business is shared with the knowledge required to be an auto repair technician. Where I work I often discuss highly technical matters with the auto parts counter person.

In fact our parts manager talks to so many technicians throughout the day that she has become quite knowledgeable about the automobile and its systems. She is also on the cutting edge of likely solutions to many different auto repair problems because she gets to see firsthand trends in repairs and failed parts.

As an example although she is a smart lady it doesn’t take an expert to figure out that she has bought 10 or 15 egr valves in the last month for Cummings diesel engines. She responds to this repair trend by stocking an EGR valve on the shelf and replacing it whenever it is dispatched. So now when we need an exhaust gas recirculation valve there is no waiting and the vehicles are up and running quickly.

Other auto parts careers

Working in aftermarket parts distribution is another option for someone who likes cars but does not want to work on them. The word aftermarket refers to a network of businesses that supply replacement auto parts to independent service shops and local dealerships.

A lot of these aftermarket parts distribution centers carry extremely large inventories of many different replacement parts. Warehouse distributors serve as a large distribution center and sell these parts and supplies to shops and driveway mechanics.

Car Parts

Some parts stores focus on individual or walk-in customers. These businesses offer the do it yourself driveway mechanic not only parts but also in some cases advice and testing of suspected failed components. If you take a starter motor into an auto zone in most cases they will be able to bench test the part and determine whether it needs to be replaced.

There are many auto parts career opportunities available in the aftermarket parts distribution network. Companies are constantly searching for knowledgeable people to represent and sell their auto parts and products. For example a sales representative working for an aftermarket parts manufacture should have a good knowledge of the company’s products.

This sales representative can often assist the shop that it deals with in training so that everyone using their products and replacement parts is properly trained and informed. As an example the local aftermarket parts supplier that supplies our shop also holds auto repair clinics once a month after work from 6 to 9. Not only do they provide snacks but they also bring in specialists to discuss certain auto repair topics.

In fact at the last auto repair clinic the local tool man came by and gave us a demonstration of an inexpensive auto scanner that did a nice job. Auto parts careers are perfect for people that enjoy being around the automobile but may not be into the busted knuckles and grease under the fingernails that comes with being an auto mechanic. For more of the latest posts to this website stop by and visit the auto repair information blog.

Testing oxygen sensors

Heated oxygen sensor

Testing oxygen sensors before replacing them is a good idea. This might not be the most common check engine light code but it is very high on the list of would be codes set in the computer’s memory. There are also many different types of oxygen sensor problems.

Often when a mechanic pulls one of these codes his first reaction may be to just go ahead and replace the sensor. There are more than 30 different codes that relate to the oxygen sensor circuit.

Some of these codes are dedicated to the heating circuit and some are dedicated to the power supply. But I believe by far the most common codes relate to the activity and efficiency of the sensor itself.

Not only can there be a wide variety of problems with the circuit that will throw a code for this exhaust stream sensor but vehicle problems can cause the code to set as well. One of the most common problems would be a vacuum leak that throws off the air fuel mixture providing a lean condition that can eventually set a code for lean exhaust.

Test the oxygen sensor

If you set a check engine light for an O2 sensor heater circuit problem it would be wise to make a few checks before you replace the part. If the O2 sensor heater is not working the sensor warm-up time is extended and the computer will stay in open loop longer. This can cause high engine emissions and poor fuel economy due to a rich mixture.

Testing oxygen sensors heater circuit can be performed by disconnecting the sensor connector and connect a voltmeter between the heater voltage supply wire (harness side) and ground. With the ignition switch on 12 V should be seen on your meter. If you have the proper voltage then you know the heater circuit is operating properly all the way down to the sensor.

You can then take your automotive meter and go from the heater terminals on the sensor side of the connector and take a resistance value. If your meter shows open (OL) and no resistance is present then this would be a strong indication that the heater has failed in the oxygen sensor itself.

Using a scanner to test oxygen sensors

Good auto scanner

I know not everyone has an auto scanner. But this is one of the best ways to test oxygen sensors. The automotive scan tool has come down in price over the years and one that is capable of testing oxygen sensors can be had for under $200.

When you pull the oxygen sensor data stream up on your auto scanner the output voltage from the sensors should constantly cycle between high and low voltages as the engine is running in closed loop. This cycling of the voltage is actually the result of the computer constantly correcting the air fuel mixture in response to the feedback from the exhaust stream sensors.

When you are watching the output voltage it should move quickly between high and low voltages in mili volts. If the response is slow the sensor could be considered lazy and might need to be replaced. As a rule of thumb, with the engine RPMs at about 2000 the sensor should cycle from high to low between 20 and 40 times in a 20 second period. If the voltage is fixed and does not move or moves very sluggishly this could be a sign of a bad sensor.

Buying an auto scanner and testing oxygen sensors before replacement can save you money in the long run. On modern vehicles there are usually at least four sensors (2 upstream and 2 down stream). The average cost of this part being around $100 and in most cases the part is not returnable. Too often I see money wasted on replacing good sensors.

In closing I would like to mention that when I run across a vehicle that has set a check engine light code of any kind I prefer to follow a diagnostic chart in the car repair manual for that specific problem. For more of the latest posts visit the auto repair information blog home page.

Nissan starter motor 3 L V-6

Nissan Starter Motor

Replacing a Nissan starter motor on the 3 L V-6 is a fairly common repair on this engine. Shortly after I purchased my 1988 Nissan 300ZX one of the first repairs that was needed was replacement of the starter motor.

The first thing I noticed was that it was not the original starter. When I started to look through the paperwork that came with the vehicle I noticed that this was actually the third time that it was replaced on this car in 100,000 miles. This seemed to be excessive in my opinion.

My goal was to find out why this vehicle needed another one. It did not take long to find the answer. And the reason I tell the story is because I believe this may be a common problem associated with a Nissan 3 L V-6 engine whether it is in a Nissan Maxima sedan or a 300ZX.

The starter motor in my 300zx was covered in a thick layer of dirt and slime. The reason for this is the oil filter is located directly above the starter and solenoid assembly. When you go to perform an engine oil change and you start to unscrew the filter about 6 ounces of oil will run all over the starter motor.

If you do not take the time to clean up the oil then when you begin to drive the vehicle dirt will stick to that thin layer of oil. If you change your engine oil every 3000 miles as was recommended by the manufacturer for this engine you can see how much oil and dirt could build up over a short period of time. On a side note if you go to a quick lube center the word quick stands for fast and do not usually include cleaning any residual oil.

Starter motor failure Nissan 3 L V-6

Nissan auto repair manual

With multiple layers of oil and dirt covering the motor and solenoid heat buildup and retention of that heat is increased greatly. When I removed the assembly I decided to take it apart and see what went wrong inside. Some oil made it inside the motor assembly and was covering the windings and brushes. I have a page on my other site about starter motors if your interested.

The armature assembly, field coil and brush holder was a purple and blue-ish color. So the starter literally burned up from the inside out. Although this assembly can be rebuilt I decided to go ahead and replace it because I could not locate an overhaul kit for it. And I did decide to spend a few extra bucks on a factory original Nissan replacement part.

88 300zx

This was the last time I had to replace the Nissan starter motor on my 300ZX. The reason this was the last time is because during every oil change I would take a few rags and cover the starter before I began to loosen the engine oil filter. The rags would soak up the oil and when the maintenance operation was completed I cleaned the area with electrical cleaner so it looked like brand-new again.

Without the oil and dirt buildup on the starter motor itself I never had another problem. As far as all the cars I owned over the last 30 years my Nissan 300 Z was the most troublesome. In all due fairness to Nissan this was also the only car I bought that already had 100,000 miles on it. If you’re interested in some of the other repairs that were required visit my Nissan 300ZX repairs section. For more general automotive repair articles visit this blog’s home page and get some auto repair information.

Windshield Washer Pump

Information about some common windshield washer problems on cars and light trucks. We all know that windshield washers spray cleaning fluid onto the windshield that works with the wiper blades to remove dirt from the front windshield. In some cases the same windshield washer pump is used to spray fluid on headlights and in some cases on the rear glass of an SUV or station wagon.

Some manufacturers will use one pump to service all of these surfaces. Other manufacturers will have separate pumps and reservoirs for the rear glass or headlight washer system. Your owner’s manual can give you a few clues about the kind of system that is equipped on your vehicle by showing you the filling locations and therefore where the reservoirs are located.

In most cases vehicle manufacturers will install a washer pump in the fluid reservoir. Although a few vehicles will use a pulse type pumps that gets its power from the wiper motor. Just about all windshield washer systems or activated by pushing and holding a washer switch. A slick feature on many vehicles is that when the washers are operated the windshield wipers are activated at the same time. You may need a car repair manual to diagnose malfunctions in these kinds of systems.

Problems with windshield washer systems

Trico Washer Pump

Some vehicles are equipped with a low fluid indicator. The warning systems are most often operated by a float connected to a switch. when the washer fluid level drops to less than a quarter of a tank the float drops and closes the switch which allows current to flow to the fuse panel and turn on the low washer fluid lamp to notify the driver to refill the washer fluid.

As with any parts that are constantly submerged in water these floats and switches can malfunction and provide an inaccurate warning or you may find that the bottle is completely empty but the warning light has not come on. In many cases removing the float and switch and cleaning off the corrosion or rust buildup coupled with applying a very small amount of lubricant can get the system working again.

One of the most common windshield washer problems that I see is that the fluid in the reservoir becomes contaminated. I have seen many different types of contamination. Sometimes somebody will put the wrong fluid into a windshield washer reservoir such as engine oil or coolant. This can cause clogs in the system and other kinds of issues with the electrical parts such as the washer pump and fluid level indicators.

Washer Fluid

I have also seen people install some additional detergents they think will do a better job of cleaning the windshield. The windshield washer reservoir was made to hold specialized windshield washer fluid only. It was not designed to have dishwashing detergent or harsh chemical bug removers in the reservoir tank or flowing through the hoses and pump. The rubber impellor inside the pump is easily damaged!

Many times when I have come across these detergents that were installed in the system it was necessary to replace all of the rubber hoses and the windshield washer pump itself. Sometimes a standard windshield washer fluid does not appear strong enough to remove what is on the windshield.

In this case take the time to physically clean the glass with an approved glass cleaner. The windshield washing system was designed to remove light dirt and debris. Not baked on stains or even stubborn deposits.

For more information about common auto repair problems you can return to the blog’s home page from this page about windshield washer problems.